![]() That will prevent digging predators like coyote and dogs from gaining access under the fencing.īe sure to attach the fencing tightly to the posts!Ĭover the top! Your run will need to be covered on top as well to prevent climbing predators like fox and raccoon, as well as aerial predators including hawks, eagles, and owls. Be sure to dig a trench around the perimeter of your run and sink the fencing down a few inches. Make sure that the wire is attached to the chicken coop itself as well. Staple the mesh at every 6 inches, securing it tightly to the posts. Once the posts are set, attach the wire fencing to the posts using staples (u-shaped nails ) and a hammer. Use a 1/2” or 1” gauge fencing to keep out small and large predators alike.Īttach fencing to the posts with construction staples. (If you have bears or other large predators in your area, you might instead consider using a chain link dog run for your chickens and then just wrap the chain link with the smaller gauge welded wire to keep the smaller predators out as well.) That will keep out predators including small ones such as weasels and larger ones like bobcats. Step 3: Attach the Wire Fencingįor a predator-proof pen, you will need to use either 1/2” or 1” welded wire fencing. Setting the wooden posts in concrete will keep them in place. Once your posts are set, cut the tops to level them and then screw boards across the top for added stability before you attach your fencing. One-third of the post should be below ground level. Start hammering the posts into the holes, making sure to hammer them at least 1 feet deep into the ground. Think about where you want your gate positioned, and place two posts closer together, marking this place. Use a level to be sure they are all set in straight, and a measuring tape to be sure they are set equidistant from each other-about 6 or 8 feet apart is a good distance (no more than 10 feet). Sinking them in concrete will ensure that they stay put. The first step in building your run is to dig holes for your fence posts. And don’t forget to build bigger with extra room in anticipation of your flock possibly growing as the years pass! Step 2: Set Your Posts In general, the more space you can allow your chickens, the better. But before you sketch out your plan and assemble your supplies, try laying out some boards on the ground to get an idea of just how big (or small!) the area is and adjust accordingly. So that means if you have 10 chickens, you should plan on a pen that’s at least 10x10, or 100 square feet. The rule of thumb is to allow a minimum of 10 square feet of outdoor run space per chicken. The size of the run you will need to build depends on the size of your flock. Step 1: Plan How Big the Chicken Run Should Be ![]() 1/2” welded wire fencing or 1” welded wire fencing.Optional: Quikrete (or other concrete mix).In colder climates, positioning your run in full sun is a good idea, as the chickens will be able to warm up in the sun all day.Įxact quantities will depend on the size run you decide to build! In warmer climates, consider either building your pen under some trees (or adding some trees after your pen is built). ![]() They will need access to the coop to lay their eggs, and might choose to spend time in the coop on cold or rainy days. Your chicken run should be attached to your coop, with a little door on the side of the coop that will allow the chickens to come and go during the day. Finally, a safe pen will also ensure that your chickens don’t wander into the road or into a neighbor’s garden or onto their front porch. A chicken run also keeps your lawn, garden and landscaping safe from your chickens, who take great delight in digging up small plants, munching on leaves, scratching through mulch, and making a happy mess. ![]()
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